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4 August 2026

Artist Highlight - CoCo Lemery

Interview and Review

CoCo Ree Lemery is a designer, educator, and director of Studio Kloak, working at the intersection of material research, lighting, and sustainability. A Professor of Industrial Design at the University of Illinois and a former corporate designer and US patent examiner, Lemery transforms overlooked waste into expressive objects. Her practice-based research focuses on regenerative material systems, including an ongoing obsession with turning common kitchen discards like onion skins into innovative biomaterials. Through conceptual exhibitions, Lemery challenges our perception of value, transforming everyday waste into sensorial design applications that connect directly to broader environmental systems.

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ARTIST INTERVIEW

1. Your lamps begin with onion skins, a material normally treated as kitchen waste. What first made you look at them as a material with design potential?


The starting point was not the onion skin. It was a problem. Materials like crystal, alabaster, and selenite are overvalued in lighting design and unsustainable to mine and process. I wanted something that could do what these materials do so well: hold light, create warmth, stop you in your tracks. I began testing common kitchen waste because it was universal, available, and free.


2. The onion skin biomaterial changes when illuminated. What did light reveal about the material that was not visible before?


The sample I almost discarded was the one that changed everything. It had dried very dark and I had moved on from it entirely. Then I placed an LED mat behind all my samples. That one changed most completely. What had looked muddy and opaque became fully translucent. The fossilized onion skins, which had looked like a flaw, looked like something designed that way on purpose. Light did not improve the material. It revealed what the material had always been.


3. Bend Lamp, Grow Lamp and Rise Lamp each have a different scale and attitude. How did you think about the character of each lamp?


Each lamp grew from what the material was willing to do at a given scale and through a specific construction method. The Bend Lamp uses a paper mache-like hand fabrication process, producing something organic and gestural, shaped by hand pressure and material response. The Rise and Grow Lamps use press mold and bent lamination methods closer to paper pulp casting, introducing more architectural intention. The character of each lamp is less a design decision than a conversation with the method.


4. The collection keeps the recognisable language of domestic lighting, but the material introduces irregularity and fragility. Were you interested in disturbing the expectation of a clean, uniform lamp shade?


Completely intentional. I once accidentally enrolled in a horror fiction writing course and learned that people are more afraid of the unfamiliar than anything else. When developing a material the world has never seen, I chose to start with the most familiar, legible form available. The lamp shade is domestic, understood, and safe. The material inside that form is none of those things. The familiar form was never the destination. It was the beginning.


5. Your work challenges how value is assigned to materials. At what point does waste become precious in your process?


It starts precious. That is the point. My work pulls materials from abandonment and actively diverts waste from landfills, but the position underneath all of it is the same: the contemporary creative is tasked with seeing opportunity in what others have decided has none. The onion skin was never waste in my process. It was the starting material. The shift in perception happens for the viewer, not for me. I am already past it by the time they pick it up.


6. The lamps are functional, repairable and designed with removable shades and interchangeable fittings. How important is long term use to your idea of sustainability?


It is everything. Leading design for a Fortune 500 furniture company, I watched how little it mattered in practice. Affordable manufacturing runs on adhesive. Everything is glued together. Recyclability depends entirely on the ability to isolate individual materials, a capacity almost entirely lost in modern production. A lamp you can repair, a shade you can replace, a fitting you can swap: these are not features. They are a position on what designing responsibly actually requires.


7. There is a strong sensorial quality in the work. The lamps are not only sustainable objects, but also warm, textured and atmospheric. How do you balance research with emotional appeal?


The balance is constantly shifting. Every prototype generates feedback and I use that feedback to push the material further. Research sets the parameters and emotion tells me when I have found something worth staying with. The material itself is a collaborator. It has opinions. Some iterations I pushed technically that the material resisted aesthetically. Some I made carelessly that turned out beautiful. The balance is less a design methodology than an ongoing negotiation.


8. Onion skins carry a memory of cooking, domestic routine and decay. Do you want viewers to remain aware of that origin when they see the lamps?


Yes. The origin is not incidental to the object. It is the argument the object makes. A lamp shade that came from your kitchen, from something you handled and discarded without a second thought, now something you want to stand near and study in the dark: that sequence is the work. The domesticity of the material is not something to overcome. It is what makes the transformation meaningful.


9. What kind of shift in perception are you hoping for when a discarded kitchen material becomes a source of light?


I sleep with an early prototype as my bedside lamp and find myself marveling at it the way I would a vast canyon or ocean view. One of the great humbling challenges of making is the impossibility of producing anything as beautiful as what nature generates without effort or intention. To see something so familiar, something everyone has held and thrown away, recontextualized into an object you lie next to in the dark and quietly study: that is what I am hoping for. Not appreciation. Awe.

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THE BEAUTY OF WHAT REMAINS

Review by Chih-Yang Chen, Art Director

There is something quietly disarming about CoCo Ree Lemery's lamps. At first glance, they appear familiar. They occupy the visual language of domestic lighting that we instinctively recognise. Yet the longer one spends with them, the stranger they become. These are lamps made from onion skins. Not metaphorically, but literally. What interests me most is that the project did not begin with waste. It began with dissatisfaction. Lemery questioned why materials traditionally associated with lighting, such as alabaster and crystal, continue to dominate despite the environmental consequences attached to their extraction. Instead of searching for a more sustainable version of luxury, she searched for an entirely different starting point. That search eventually led to the kitchen. There is a refreshing lack of sentimentality in the work. Lemery does not romanticise waste, nor does she present sustainability as a moral lesson. In her hands, onion skins are simply another material with their own characteristics, limitations, and possibilities. The fascination comes from observing what happens when light enters them. One of the strongest aspects of the project is its sense of discovery. Some of the most successful outcomes emerged from unexpected moments rather than careful planning. A sample that initially appeared unsuccessful became extraordinary once illuminated. What had seemed dull suddenly revealed depth, translucency, and delicate traces of the onion's original structure. The material was not transformed into something else. Instead, its hidden qualities became visible. This attitude runs throughout the collection. The forms themselves remain familiar. Lemery wisely avoids creating overly experimental shapes that would distract from the material. The lampshade is something we already understand. That familiarity allows the viewer to approach the object without resistance. Only afterwards do they begin to notice the subtle irregularities, the embedded fibres, and the organic textures that make these pieces feel unlike anything else. The material still remembers where it came from. That memory matters. Many sustainable objects attempt to disguise their origins in order to imitate conventional luxury. Lemery does the opposite. The domestic history of the onion skin remains present. These lamps are meaningful precisely because they come from something so ordinary. Their origins are not hidden beneath refinement; they are what give the work its emotional weight. There is also a generosity in the way the objects are designed. The lamps can be repaired, dismantled, and maintained over time. In an industry where permanence is often sacrificed for efficiency, this feels increasingly important. Longevity is treated not as an additional feature, but as a fundamental responsibility. Yet what stays with me most is not the research, nor even the sustainability. It is the atmosphere. When illuminated, the surfaces produce a warmth that feels unexpectedly intimate. The fragments suspended within the material resemble botanical specimens, fossils, or traces preserved in amber. Standing beside them, one becomes aware that the most compelling qualities were already present within the onion skin itself. The designer's role was simply to reveal them. Perhaps that is what makes the work so memorable. These lamps do not ask us to admire innovation. They ask us to look again. And sometimes, looking again is enough to change the way we understand the world around us.

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